Tsodilo Hills Botswana
In the flat barren landscape of the western Kalahari, some 50km
west of the village of Sepupa on the banks of Panhandle, the sheer
quartzite cliff-faces of the four Tsodilo Hills rise majestically
above the surrounding savannah. The four hills form a line and are
referred to by the San people as "The Male" - the largest
hill which reaches a height of 410 metres above the surrounding
plain; "The Female" - a smaller hill, about 300m, but
has an overall area of almost three times that of The Male; and
the next in size of 40m is referred to as "The Child"
and lies about 2km away from The Female.
Beyond these three is a much smaller unnamed knoll, located 2.2km
northwest of The Child, which legend has it was The Male Hill's
first wife who was discarded when he met and married the taller
Female Hill.
The enigmatic and spiritual quality of the hills was noted by the
famous author Sir Laurens van der Post in his book "The Lost
World of the Kalahari" It was here that Sir Laurens's cameras
inexplicably jammed, his tape recorders ceased functioning and his
party was attacked by swarms of bees three mornings running. When
he learned from his guide that two of his party had disturbed the
Tsodilo spirits by ignoring long-established protocol and killing
a warthog and a steenbok while approaching the sacred hills, van
der Post buried a note of apology beneath the panel of paintings
that now bears his name and it was apparently accepted.
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Tsodilo is a place of special significance to the San who have been
living here for thousands of years. They believe the hills are a
resting place for the spirits of the deceased and that their various
gods live in caverns within the Female Hill, from where they rule
the world. The most sacred place is near the top of the Male Hill;
legend has it that the first spirit knelt here to pray after creating
the world. This was when the rocks were still soft and the San believe
you can still see the impression of his knees in the gray rock.
It is believed that these gods will cause misfortune if anyone hunts
or causes death near the hills. The Harnbukushu, who also live in
the area, believe the hills are where God lowered man to earth.
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Archaeological studies have revealed that this area has been occupied
by humans for at least 100,000 years. There are paintings on all the hills
that cover 9 km2 of rock in a 22 km2 area. The best sites are at the north
end of the Female hill.
The fact that Tsodilo is totally removed from all other rock art sites
in southern Africa adds to its aura of mystery and magic. The nearest
known site is 250 km away. What is more, the paintings at Tsodilo are
generally unlike others in the southern African region in both style and
the incidence of certain images.
.The Tsodilo Hills is one of the most historically significant rock art
sites in the world with 500 individual sites charting thousands of years
of human habitation. There is a small San encampment nearby as well as
a village near the Male Hill inhabited by the Hambukushu people. Guides
are available at these settlements.
The track to Tsodilo Hills is extremely rough and suitable only for four-wheel-drive
vehicles.
The turning off the main Maun/Shakawe road is just south of Sepupa and
is indicated with a National Museum signpost. There are no designated
campsites in the area and camping is permitted anywhere, but again, be
sure to treat Tsodilo with respect.
An area rich in birdlife as well as excellent fishing grounds.With the
Okavango river at the panhandle being deep and fast-flowing it is ideal
for both the fighting Tigerfish and bream. Seventeen species of fish can
be caught in the Panhandle area.
Scenically beauty with superb opportunities for photography.
Have you visited this area? If so please share your experience and photographs
with us, we would love to include them on this webpage to help future
visitors to this area.
Email
: bookbotswana@madbookings.com
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